A Little Taste of Tokyo
There is just so much to see and do in Tokyo. Each district in the capital city of Japan seems to have its own distinct personality. One week in this beautiful, bustling city and we knew we had barely skimmed the surface. We know we will return to this city and to Japan over and over again in the years to come. Meanwhile, here are our favourite places and experiences from our first time to Tokyo:
Golden Gai:
Tucked away in a corner of Shinjuku, Golden Gai is said to offer visitors a glimpse into how Tokyo used to be pre massive redevelopment mid 20th century. No stately buildings or architectural grandeur here really. In fact, Golden Gai is completely hemmed in by Shinjuku high-rises. Still, you will marvel at the warren that is Golden Gai—a network of 6 narrow alleys with over 200 drinking dens packed, and passageways between alleys that are just wide enough for two. Needless to say the bars here are also tiny...some can only seat 5-6 customers at a time. Although this part of Tokyo would be fascinating to be in at any time of day, it is only late at night that this place comes alive.
Golden Gai in Tokyo
It's Golden Gai Time!
Couple of things to know before you go: Many bars only serve regulars. We went here with a local we met in Tokyo who told us that a price list or any other signage in English outside an establishment is a good indication that visitors are welcome. Many places have a cover charge.
Omoide Yokocho (a.k.a Memory Lane, a.k.a Piss Alley):
Dinner at Piss Alley in Tokyo
Piss Alley at night
and during the day
Kapil and I have seen our share of narrow, jam-packed alleyways. Still, Tokyo's version of these are a sight to behold and experience. Here's a great guide to Tokyo's alleyways on Time Out.
The name Omoide Yokocho translates to Memory Lane. So called because it has roots dating back to 1940s post-war Tokyo, when it was the location for street vendors and black market traders. This maze burnt down in fires 1999 and had to be rebuilt. Omoide Yokocho also famously known as Piss Alley is popular enough to have a website dedicated to its exploration. It is situated on the west side of Shinjuku station and is only a couple of minutes walk from the stations East and West exits.
Piss Alley is crammed with tiny Izakaya (casual Japanese style bars) and eateries (serving yakitori, soba, yakiniku etc) and is an after work haunt for many in suits. Many places have signage and menus in English. The vibe in these smoke-filled joints is unlike any place we have ever experienced. Like Golden Gai, Piss Alley comes alive at night and most establishments can only fit a handful of customers.
Our Room With A View:
From the lounge at Keio Plaza Hotel in Shinjuku, where we stayed in Tokyo, we had views of the Tokyo skyline. We loved hanging out here when it was raining outside, and even relaxing with a drink and munchies after a long day exploring Tokyo.
Keio Plaza Lounge: We watched from the safety of our hotel lounge as the skies grew dark before heavy showers one afternoon in Tokyo
Even better was the view from our room...just behind the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, towering over thousands of skyscrapers, we could see Mount Fuji in the distance on crisp, clear mornings.
View from our room in Keio Plaza Shinjuku
Kabukicho:
So named because of plans in the 1940s to build a Kabuki theatre in this district. The theatre was never built but the name stuck. Kabukicho is the entertainment and red light district in Shinjuku with its love hotels, host and hostess clubs, nightclubs, shops and restaurants. The place had a great buzz to it. It is a must see in Tokyo. We loved strolling through this area with its bright lights, sounds and crowds.
Kabukicho In Tokyo
We even found a small but reasonably priced joint in one of the alleyways here and enjoyed delicious yakitori. We loved the smoke and incandescent light filled vibe of this place so much that we went back for another meal before we left Tokyo. Generally though Kabukicho is known for being expensive.
Dinner at Kabukicho
Many of the clubs, restaurants and bars in Kabukicho have someone standing at the street entrance coaxing people in. Some of them can be pushy. Best to be cautious here if you don't want to get sucked into an expensive establishment. Other than that though, Tokyo is regularly rated amongst the safest cities in the world, so we weren't at all nervous about venturing into Kabukicho.
Shibuya:
Shibuya is Tokyo's most popular shopping and entertainment district. The buildings, the ginormous billboards, the bright lights and signs, the colours, the crowds and of course, the world famous Shibuya intersection (a Tokyo landmark) all contribute to its unique charm.
The famous Shibuya Intersection by day.
Shibuya Intersection at Night
Genki Sushi:
Genki Sushi in Shibuya serves delicious, fresh sushi at perfectly reasonable prices but there were other things that made this Kaiten Sushi (sushi on a conveyor belt) experience a delightful one.
First you order your food using a screen (English, Chinese, Korean and Japanese language options available), your sushi is then made fresh and put on a tray that holds up to 3 dishes. This tray sits on a conveyor belt that delivers your dishes to your table (flying almost). No waiters or staff anywhere in sight. As the tray arrives at your table, there are buttons in front of you that light up. Once you have taken your plates off the tray, you just press one of the blinking buttons to send it back to the kitchen. The whole thing works seamlessly! There are 3 conveyor belts so you get to glimpse dishes zipping past on their way to other tables. See below.
Ordering food is a breeze at Genki Sushi in Shibuya
The menu
Our food arrives at our table on this tray on a conveyor belt
Genki Sushi Shibuya: Sushi on a conveyor belt
¥100 shops:
¥100 shops or 100 Yen shops are the Japanese take on your average dollar or pound store. Except, in true Japanese style, they have added their own inimitable panache to your average dollar/pound store. If, like us, you live in a city that has Daiso stores then you already know what I am talking about.
These shops cater not only to locals in need of household basics and DIY essentials, but also to visitors looking for gifts. These are an absolute must-visit for stocking up on Japanese knick-knacks for loved ones back home, or even just for yourself. Most ¥100 shops stock homeware, kitchenware, gardening essentials, ceramics, stationery and office supplies, toiletries and beauty supplies, toys, games, and novelty items. You are likely to find in these shops, items to put an end to some or all of your niggling home organisation, cooking, gardening, DIY vexations...And no, the low price does not mean low quality and poor finish. Here's a great Time Out write up about the best ¥100 shops in Tokyo.
Akihabara:
Akihabara in Tokyo
Akihabara (also known as Akiba) in central Tokyo is mecca for electronics, anime, manga buffs. Kapil was in absolute raptures in this place and I found his enthusiasm infectious. There are just hundreds of tiny, small and big electronic shops selling every imaginable gadget and gizmo. In the gaps between electronic stores, there are the shops dedicated to Japan's Otaku (diehard fan) culture. These shops specialise in otaku goods: anime, manga, retro video games, figurines, card games and all sorts of other collectibles. Akihabara is also known for its maid cafes, where waitresses dress up and act like maids or anime characters.
Akihabara: Tokyo's mecca for electronics, anime, manga buffs.
Harajuku:
Harajuku is the area around Harajuku station which is located between Shinjuku and Shibuya wards in Tokyo. It is famous the world over as Japan's forward-thinking fashion capital (we've all heard of the Harajuku girls). Takeshita-dori in Harajuku is a pedestrian-only street which is the hub for Japanese pop-culture and wacky trends you are unlikely to encounter outside Japan. This 400 meter long street is lined by shops, boutiques, used clothes stores, crepe stands (Harajuku crepes anyone?, cafes and fast food outlets targeting teenagers.
Harajuku Crepes anyone?
Sunday at Quirky Harajuku
Takeshita-dori
Just south of Takeshita-dori lies Tokyo's Champs-Elysees, Omotesando. Twice the length of Takeshita-dori, Omotesando is a broad, tree-lined avenue with famous brand name stores, cafes and restaurants for those of us that are no longer teenagers.
Harajuku, Tokyo : Omotesando on a Sunday...and this is just one side of the road.
Love people watching? fashion? not fazed by epic crowds? Then Harajuku is the place to be on a Sunday afternoon to see cosplayers dressed in their finest lined up on the bridge to the left of Harajuku station. Cosplay (costume-play) has been an integral part of Japanese pop culture now for a couple of decades. Teenagers dress up in extreme outfits, usually inspired by manga/anime characters; although there are many outfits that are based on other (more abstract) themes. It is said that young people in Japan use this as a means of creative expression—an escape from the monotony of day-to-day life.
Meiji Jingu:
One of the most popular shrines in Japan, Meiji Jingu (or Meiji Shrine) is a shinto shrine dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji (the first emperor of Japan) and his wife Empress Shoken. The Shrine lies just beside Harajuku station and is located in a forest that covers 170 acres—a big spot of greenery in this bustling metropolis. It is said that there are over 100,000 trees of over 300 species in this forest—all donated by people across Japan during the construction of the Shrine almost a century ago.
Sunday at Meiji Jingu in Tokyo
We were here on a Sunday and though there were many people here, there was a tranquility in the air. We loved watching people engaged in Shinto rituals. Kapil got some great shots of priests and locals in traditional attire.
Little girl in a kimono at Meiji Shrine
Priests at Meiji Shrine
Tokyo Metro:
Here again the Japanese have taken humble public transportation and elevated it to a whole new level. Tokyo Metro is world renowned for its scale and efficiency. When we were on our way to Harajuku there was a announcement through the PA system apologising for a delay of 13 seconds in the service! Truly impressive.
Mid morning on Tokyo Metro.
